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ECOTOURISM: FACT OR FICTION?
What is ecotourism? The interesting thing about ecotourism is that very few
people know how to answer that question. The large part of the problem is
that ecotourism means different things to different people. To some, Pirates
of the Caribbean might suit well for an ecotourist adventure. To others,
eating tree bark while photographing squirrels is a much better alternative.
it is our fundamental desire to enjoy nature that has been the driving force
behind the development of ecotourism. Ironically this desire to “get back to
nature” began largely due to the development of nature’s antitheses--cities.
People, the fickle creatures that we are, went to all the trouble to build
cities only later to find ourselves wanting to leave them. Over time we
began to recognize that although cities insulate us from the natural
elements they also isolate us from its beauty and splendor. With every added
comfort that the urban lifestyle provides there is a greater gap between our
natural surroundings and us.
By the mid 60’s local governments realized that in order for a national park
to be successful it must benefit the local inhabitants financially. This was
the dawning of “ecotourism” which combined the notion of sustaining nature
and the local population simultaneously. Hiking, rock climbing, bird
watching and similar activities allow tourists to enjoy their natural
surroundings while sustaining the local economy through support services
such as hotel accommodations. This redefined nature as a reusable commodity
rather than resource to ravage. As a result local inhabitants benefited from
its preservation rather than its destruction, or that’s the initial idea
anyway.
People, the fickle creatures that we are, went to all the trouble to build
cities only later to find ourselves wanting to leave them.
As the industry of ecotourism grows there has become a greater need to
define its parameters. There have been many definitions asserted, however I
found The International Ecotourism Society (T.I.E.S.) to have as good a
definition as any, "Responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the
environment and sustains the well-being of local people." This would
probably take Pirates of the Caribbean out of the running, but eating tree
bark and photographing squirrels might still make the grade. The difficult
part of this definition is to ascertain what is meant by “responsible”.
Rather than take any chances on acting “irresponsibly”, which I seem to have
a natural talent for, I decided to let T.I.E.S. guide me to my first
ecotourist destination.
The first leg of my journey brought me to the Arenal Observatory Lodge
located near La Fortuna, Costa Rica, which is listed by T.I.E.S. as an
ecotourist destination. The Observatory is fittingly located a lava spill
away from the active Arenal Volcano. If an aspiring ecotourist desires a
close encounter with nature this is probably one of the best locations for
such an endeavor. During my two day stay I was regularly reminded of
Arenal’s presence with the thundering burps of lava that were more often
heard than seen due to the consistent cloud cover overhead. Sadly this can
often be one of the difficulties with ecotourism; Mother Nature does not
keep an itinerary. This may sound obvious yet for some it is not all that
clear. During one of the guided tours a fellow ecotourist claimed he had
felt “cheated” given that the Observatory did not allow him to actually
observe an erupting volcano. He declared that the Observatory should not
make such assertions unless lava flow is included in the package.
Fortunately Mother Nature did offer a smattering of lava to appease his
irritation. As a result he decided to stay—lucky for her.
My next leg of the trip brought me to a location that has tamed nature in
such a way that I was assured to experience it just they way I wanted --The
Tabacon Hot Springs. If there were such a thing as a water park for
ecotourism this would be it. Tabacon offers two natural springs of steaming,
hot mineral water meandering through the resort, spilling out into 17 wading
pools between lukewarm and scalding. Numerous massage huts are spotted
throughout the resort, which is embraced by a garden that would bring Martha
Stewart to envy; all of this in the shadow of an active volcano. It is
important to note that unlike the Arenal Observatory Lodge the Tabacon Hot
Springs is not recognized by T.I.E.S. Regardless, I was assured of
experiencing natural wonders, cloudy day or not. Still--I felt like I was
cheating. It was the coconut facial or perhaps the fruity, dill weed Slurpy.
Ultimately, the entire experience seemed just a little too decadent for this
journey to be truly considered ecotourism. I had to ask myself, “Do I need
to be removed from my creature comforts to be an authentic ecotourist?” The
answer is—Who Knows, or for some...Who Cares? Regardless, the La Paloma
Lodge, located on the Osa Peninsula, begs such a question.
Although the La Paloma Lodge is not affiliated with T.I.E.S. it has many of
the traits that make for an idyllic ecotourist adventure. Recycling,
environmental conservation, and generating income for the local population
are just some of the principles within the La Paloma philosophy. In addition
to its environmental ethic, La Paloma is cradled in one of the most
biologically diverse regions of Central America, just off the southern tip
of the Osa Peninsula nestled in Drake Bay. Not surprisingly, getting there
is half the fun. After a 30-minute flight by prop plane, 15 minutes by jeep,
and 5 minutes by boat I felt like Harrison Ford in Raiders of the Lost Ark.
But as my friends often remind me…I am no Harrison Ford. Regardless, During
the journey I was exposed to breathtaking, tropical scenery that is
somewhere between a National Geographic exploration and a Gilligan’s island
episode--minus the seven castaways.
Stray oil barrels, polluted riversides and a sewage system that leave
absolutely nothing to the imagination are just some of the drawbacks to
underdeveloped ecotourism industry.
During my stay at La Paloma I was speaking with the resort manager, Nicole,
about ecotourism and what it means to her. She professed that ecotourism is
in fact a “contradiction in terms”. Ecotourism by definition requires people
to observe nature. However, the more people “observe” the more nature is
impacted. And there is no doubt she is right. In the two years I have lived
in Costa Rica I have discovered that humans have done quite a job on this
beautiful country. Stray oil barrels, polluted riversides and a sewage
system that leave absolutely nothing to the imagination are just some of the
drawbacks to underdeveloped ecotourism industry.
One reason Drake Bay has been able to maintain such a great reputation for
the purist ecotourist is because of its seclusion from modern innovation.
Unfortunately like all good vacation destinations that may change.
Infrastructure such as paved roads, electricity and water lines are looming
in Drake Bay’s future. As a result the Drake Bay community may become more
accessible for all the things that we hate to love...blow dryers, cars,
hotels, resorts and my personal favorite...stray dogs. It is important to
note that many ecotourist locations are good eco-destinations because they
are distant from the innovations that make life comfortable. The question
then becomes, how far removed from civilization does someone have to be
before they are assured of a genuine ecotourist location?
Considering that remote environments are often considered an integral part
of an ecotourist experience it would be difficult to suggest a more fitting
ecotourist adventure than Outward Bound. However, it is important to
remember the more remote an environment, the less comfortable it tends to
be. I heard Outward Bound described as the Boy Scouts on steroids. Hiking
between 10 to 85 days through the rainforest, experiencing activities such
as cultural homestays, white water rafting, surfing, climbing or just about
any other activity that enhances your exposure to nature. All your amenities
are found in your backpack and the day generally ends with sleeping under a
rain tarp (appropriately named) deep in the Costa Rican outback. This is a
challenging and adventurous experience but rarely comfortable. Showering
once a week becomes a luxury. Deodorant is about as frequent as a coconut
facial. Intimacy is more common with mosquitoes than people; and your best
friend is the bottle of Gold Bond in your back pocket. Understandably this
adventure and others like it often get placed in “maybe next year” file for
tourist get-a-ways.
So after all is said and done what is ecotourism and which one of these is
the true ecotourist adventure? The answer is--It depends on whom you ask.
Ultimately the level in which you impact the environment is the barometer of
how “ecofriendly” you are. Leaving your living room will impact the
environment; the question is how do you become an ecotourist without
impacting the environment? That said I would like to leave you with this
thought…
If a tree grows in a forest and no one is there to see it, is it still
ecotourism?
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