Sunday
23 February 2003
TORTUGUERO - the
Costarican Amazon
By: Paul Hovinga
It
always amazes me how a small country like Costa Rica can
be so diverse. I
would say that the perfect example for that diversity is
Tortuguero.
The
only way to get there is by boat. Between Limón and
Tortuguero you´ll find a web of water; canals and
rivers, sometimes mangroves and always animals, animals
and more animals.
After
this exciting boat ride you are ready to come into the
village of Tortuguero. A time warp. Obviously there are
no cars and the 600 people who live there live mostly off
tourism. The beaches are famous for the thousands of
green turtles who lay their eggs between July and
November. Travelers are allowed to visit the nesting
beaches at night and watch the turtles lay their eggs or
observe the eggs hatching. Camera flashes, video cameras
and flashlights are prohibited by law, as they disturb
the egg-laying process and attract predators to the
hatchings.
Guides
are available to accompany you to those beaches. I find
it always amazing how they can spot the turtles coming
onto the beaches when it is pitch dark. All the guides
are extremely knowledgeable and sympathetic, as long as
you follow their instructions, which they give you for
the obvious reason to protect the turtles.
Most
of the nesting beaches are part of the Tortuguero
National Park, but, some of the more adventurous turtles
use the public beaches.
There
is an impressive effort going on to protect this nesting
process, supported by volunteers from all over the
world. Results are good. The count from 3.000 green
turtles per year visiting the nesting beaches in the
1980s, went up to 20.000 in the mid 90s. Eco tourism
works! Knowing this, I experienced an extra special
feeling of intimacy, watching this huge turtle from very
close, digging her hole
with slow but deliberate movements, with only the
sound of the waves in the background.
Tortuguero
is the landing spot of many people who came from
Nicaragua (by boat) looking for opportunities that their
own country couldn´t offer.
One
of those people was Miss Miriam Solis who came here with
her three daughters, Roxana, Haty and Anabel. Like most
Nicaraguans she worked very hard and, after
a few years, was able to start her own restaurant
with local, Caribbean specialties. Later she saved
enough to start her own guest house, which is called
Cabinas Miss Miriam. I strongly advise you to go there
and to experience the family´s hospitality. Enjoy their
specialty: Rice and beans with coconut and chicken:
Caribbean style! The always present Miss Miriam is a
dear and almost makes you forget your own mother.
The
rest of the trip with Baula Tours is informative and
diverse.
On
the way to the boat we visited coffee-, banana- and
pineapple plantations, the Braulio Carrillo National
Park and enjoyed a great breakfast.
In
Tortuguero we went to the visitor center of the
Caribbean Conservation Corporation, a research station 1
km north of the village. It showed us the history of
turtle conservation.
Early
morning the next day we had a boat ride through the
canals, and I think I never saw so many different wild
animals in my life.
This
trip will cost you $95,- , including
all the meals and a great guide who sees snakes where
you see tree trunks.
Tortuguero:
a once-in-a-lifetime-experience!
Paul Hovinga has traveled all over the world before settling down in Costa Rica, as a travel consultant.
You can contact him at: baulatours@racsa.co.cr
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