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Surf's Up in Costa Rica
TAMARINDO, Costa Rica -- A $2-a-night shack on a remote beach with the guys sounds like a dream for many thrill-seeking surfers, but throw in a snorkeling girlfriend who likes hot showers and air conditioning and that dream becomes a wipeout.
It's a dilemma that made planning the perfect vacation a nightmare. And after months of researching every spot from South Africa to Barbados, Costa Rica sounded like the perfect compromise.
The travel guides promised plenty of reef breaks and consistent swells -- plus shell-covered beaches, lush rain forests, exotic wildlife and erupting
volcanos.
But after stepping off the single-engine, 12-person plane on that narrow gravel strip in Tamarindo, it soon became clear why Costa Rica translates to "rich coast."
The surf at nearby Playa Negra on the Northwest Pacific shore was good enough for two to four surf sessions a day -- enough to satisfy even a Hawaii native -- while the wide, gentle beaches at Tamarindo were perfect for swimming, boogie-boarding and just lounging in the sun with a book in this peaceful, progressive, tourist-friendly Central American nation.
And for just a $1 boat ride across a narrow crocodile-filled estuary, Playa Grande became a short trip that offered inconsistent, but fun, surf and an amazing array of colorful seashells -- including mounds of unbroken sand dollars.
All of this within a 30-minute drive. Compromise, indeed.
In between swells, a three-day trip inland was the ideal rest for aching paddling muscles and a great opportunity for some quality time together exploring Costa Rica's other treasures.
Volcano Arenal is perhaps the country's most awe-inspiring sight. It has a reputation of letting visitors down because its smoking mile-high peak is often shrouded by clouds. But on a clear night, it's incredible.
The gurgling crimson lava explodes like fireworks before oozing down the slopes in chunky blobs. It thunders and crackles with each release so that even whispering the occasional "wow" distracts from the experience. It's a phenomenon even more amazing to watch from the natural hot springs just below at Tabacon spa, which has 10 pools ranging from about 73 to 102 degrees. The resort also is loaded with waterfalls, tropical flowers and an amazing canvas of stars.
Bugs and birds
Just a half-day's drive away lies the cloud forest in Monteverde, which was another trek that scored with both the surfer and the sunbather.
Twelve cable bridges stretch high above the lush canopy where green leaves and stringy vines race to overtake every piece of bare bark below.
Monteverde also has a butterfly garden with an insect room full of creepy crawlies. One tarantula was as big as a fist, while a case full of cockroaches weighed in at twice that size.
But the butterflies were the true stars as they glided from flower to flower, showing off their dazzling wing patterns. The experience was enhanced by exotic birds calling from the surrounding rain forest.
But it wasn't long until the waves started calling, and back at Playa Negra, barrels were forming. The lineup was crowded with too many wanna-be wave catchers and some who needed schooling in the proper etiquette, but the locals were mellow and generous.
As for the true locals, called Ticos, their hospitality and carefree spirit was energizing. In fact, hitchhiking is so common and safe here, few even bother waiting for buses -- they simply flag down tourists. The favor is frequently reciprocated when locals pick up foreigners hoofing it to the beach while lugging surfboards.
However, in some places, walking might actually be preferred to bouncing over miles of rutted, flooded dirt paths. Four-wheel drive is a must and, even then, white-knuckle driving is common while negotiating everything from rock slides to rivers.
Horseback riding is another option, but it's not advised unless it's obvious the horses are well cared for. Some animals on the beach in Tamarindo looked so thin and overworked that it was difficult to watch them carry oblivious riders up and down the coast every afternoon.
Out near Playa Negra, though, several private owners hold daily rides with healthy horses that are well fed and rested before each trip.
But none of this is cheap. Costa Rica is a far cry from the rock-bottom prices found these days in Bali and Mexico. But in a democratic country known for its history of peacefulness -- there's not even an army here -- safety isn't a major concern for visitors. One other huge plus: no beggars or street vendors hassling tourists to buy trinkets.
Still, there are some deals to be had, but they go fast and cannot be counted on, especially in the dry season, which runs from December to April. The cheapest hotel up to the sunbather's standards was near the airport just outside of Tamarindo. The Costa Real ran $25 a night. It had air conditioning, cable TV and a nice pool. Hot water was not part of the deal, though.
Modesto dude critiques cuisine
Another jewel was the Hotel Iguanazul, which consisted of several simple bungalows perched atop sea cliffs at Playa Junquillal, about a half hour from Tamarindo. For $50 a night, it had a nice pool, bar and restaurant, along with two hammocks offering killer views -- perfect for snoozing or watching the sun rise and fade -- and within a short walk of good surf. Inexpensive massages also could be arranged here.
The cuisine isn't anything to brag about -- beans and meat. It's hearty, but bland. The fish, however, is fresh and delicious. One restaurant called The Reef on the beach at Playa Negra -- it looks more like a cement-floored carport -- serves up fresh mahi-mahi and snapper baked in ginger or garlic with giant scoops of mashed potatoes. It was so cheap and delicious that one surfer from Modesto, who was on his honeymoon, shook the chef's hand and proclaimed it the best "candy" he had ever eaten.
Costa Rica's diverse wildlife also was a treat. A family of howler monkeys was a delight to watch every evening at sunset near the Mono Congo Lodge. The animals' guttural calls made them impossible to miss as they danced from tree to tree.
Iguanas, some as big as dogs, also were found everywhere, along with their droppings. In other words, going barefoot at night isn't advised.
Some tourists were lucky enough to spot three-toed sloths, caymans and hundreds of Pacific Ridley sea turtles beaching themselves to lay their eggs, which happens from August to October at Ostional National Wildlife Refuge, just south of Tamarindo. At Playa Grande, leatherback turtles usually perform the same mass nesting from October to April.
But despite all of the magic it has to offer, Costa Rica's true beauty really is self-explanatory. It's a country abounding with rich beaches and rich waves -- a perfect destination with or without surfboards.
If You Go ...
On the Net: www.aventuras-costarica.com
Getting there: Airlines flying from North
America to San José (the capital of Costa Rica) are United, American, Delta, Continental, Northwest and Taca. Round-trip fare ranges from $460 to $650. Connecting flights to Tamarindo take 55 minutes
Ground transportation: If small planes aren't for you, major U.S. rental-car agencies all have outlets in San José. However, roads are poor in some areas and some roadways are washed out during the rainy season. Costa Rica has no national network of buses, but there are plenty of private companies offering a variety of services.
Sightseeing: A number of travel agencies specializing in Costa Rica tours can be found on the Costa Rica Tourism Board's Web site:
www.aventuras-costarica.com
Lodging: Depending on the areas you visit, lodging can consist of simple rooms in facilities that run on generators, meaning no hot water and no electricity after a certain time of day. Travelers would be smart to do meticulous research on hotels before booking any rooms. Costa Rica also is very popular with student groups, so check with hotels to see if large groups will be there when you plan to visit, should you prefer to avoid a congested facility.
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