Getting
Intimate with Volcanoes
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COLIN
HEMMINGS, Travel writer
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| To
see lava flowing is an
awesome experience! |
Mention
getting close to volcanoes, and
thoughts of you being a prospective
Bellevue patient might come to your
listener. But this is becoming a
familiar experience sought after in
Costa Rica. Chief among these
experiences is the fireworks of
Arenal Volcano.
Since
the onset of the decade of the
1990s, Costa Rica has been steadily
attracting visitors hoping to get a
glimpse of the daily eruptions of
Arenal Volcano.
While
Arenal hardly disappoints, sit is
its nocturnal pyrotechnics that
attracts breathtaking oohs and aahs
from onlookers. Arenal possesses the
classic look of a volcano, if
illustrations in books are anything
to go by, with its conical shape,
with a puff of smoke or fire on top.
No one ventures within spewing
distance of Arenal but vantage
points five miles away offer a good
view of the 5,400-foot mountain
(that's an estimate these days, not
only due to the danger of going near
it but also the supposition that the
eruptions add height to it).
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| Costa
Rica's volcanoes range from
the tranquil to the dramatic |
Arenal
erupted soon after the Spanish began
colonising the country in the early
1500s and remained dormant until
1968 when without warning it spewed
violently, killing 78 people in
nearby villages. It even formed
three new craters. Arenal has had
scary eruptions since, one as recent
as early last month.
Exclusively
exploring volcanoes in Costa Rica
can take up an entire vacation. If
truth be told, there are some
amazing scenes to be experienced.
Take for instance Volcan Poas, the
closest to Costa Rica's capital of
San Jose. At 8,800 feet, Poas is
some 1,400 feet higher than the Blue
Mountain's highest peak, yet you can
drive to the top on some smooth
roads with hardly any precipices
adjacent to the road.
Poas
hasn't erupted in 50 years but
fumarolic emissions are continuous.
Visitors need not be timorous to go
to the volcano's edge. It can be a
bright, sunny day but yet the
volcano can be shrouded in fog-like
clouds. But visitors are encouraged
to wait instead of departing and
paying the US$6 entrance fee to the
protected park another day (it's $2
if you are a Central American or if
your Spanish is good enough to
convince ticket sellers of such).
The
wait can last more than an hour but
there's little reason to be overcome
by ennui as there are likely to be a
cadre of visitors from all over the
globe to banter with. Then the fog
lifts, albeit teasingly, to reveal
only a peak of a teal hue. Cameras
start clicking away as no one knows
how the fog will behave.
But
then it decides to reward patience
with one of the most breathtaking
volcanic scenes as you look down at
a 45 degree angle into the nearly
mile-wide crater.
Sulphureous
steam emanates from the turquoise-coloured
lagoon but with such a quiet
disposition that no one stirs until
the fog rolls in again as if to say
to the onlookers, "that's
enough".
Just
one hour's drive northwest of San
Jose, Poas is probably Costa Rica's
most visited volcano (Arenal is seen
but not visited). An hour and a half
by car east of San Jose is Irazu
Volcano, another you can drive to
within yards of the craters. On
stepping out of your car the scene
might look somewhat familiar, if you
are into sci-fi movies. Walk on the
lunar-like landscape and you might
be given to wonder if this is where
astronauts and cosmonauts actually
land. Then go to the edge of the
crater which affords a direct
downward look displaying what could
be mistaken for a lake of discarded
auto anti-freeze.
Irazu
is considered to be still active but
its stagnant-looking lake of green
is far less impressive than the
drive to and from the crater. Not a
knock on the volcano but a testament
to the astounding beauty that
affords distant sighting of San Jose
and the former capital of Cartago in
the Central Valley.
Travellers
on the smooth winding road can get
up close and personal with farmers
and their coffee, potato and
vegetable plantations along the
roadsides. The soil is very rich
here aided by ash spewing from the
11,260-foot summit (the country's
highest) in the 1960s.
Irazu
had its fair share of rumblings in
the early '60s, but the day US
President JF Kennedy set foot in the
country to promote his regional
economic development plan against
the backdrop of the Cold War with
the Soviet Union, Irazu spat out ash
all the way to the capital 45 miles
away.
Costa
Rica has nine active volcanoes in
total but to experience the others
requires lots of trekking on foot.
Turrialba Volcano, just behind Irazu
but an hour's drive from each
other's nearest accessible point by
road, is for the physically fit. At
just over 10,000 feet high, it is
the second highest volcano. And it
is possible to climb unto the
crater's floor especialy if you like
flirting with seismic danger. No
eruptions here in 130 years might be
a comforting thought to the
adventurous.
The
northwestern most volcano which
almost abuts towards the border with
Nicaragua is Rincon de la Vieja
volcano, which erupted 30 years ago
this week. Almost promptly, the
government created a national park
around the area to protect the
region's rich plant and animal life
and the many water sources.
(Every
volcano is part of a national park
in Costa Rica).
Quite
a time and energy consuming activity
to hike this volcano, which has nine
craters prompting most visitors to
be satisfied with the moist verdancy
that permeates throughout.
Rincon
de la Vieja is actually part of the
Guanacaste Range System which also
includes Orosi Volcano, the first
mountain seen on entering Costa Rica
from Nicaragua, Tenorio and
Miravalles at 6,650 feet is the
highest of the range.
Sighting
a volcanic mountain in Costa Rica is
actually an everyday experience for
most Costa Ricans. In fact,
Josefinos (residents of the capital)
can't avoid the 9,534 feet high
Barva Volcano which towers over the
city but, thankfully, with nary a
menace to society.
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