Letters to the Editor:
Adventures in the eco-wonderland that is Costa Rica
Newsweek Budget Travel:


To the Editor:

We have been to Costa Rica three times and I certainly have some tips for travelers going there. First and foremost, one week is just a tease. It is such a diverse and thrilling place that to see even one fourth of what the region has to offer you need at least 10-14 days. Traveling south along the coast you will see fabulous beaches, amazing sunsets, and temperatures between 34-36 degrees Celsius every day. Driving the roads, however, is not a easy task. With the major surface imperfections, narrow roadways, and aggressive traffic, it is daunting to say the least. Don't forget your sunscreen and your bug spray! There is a microscopic mosquito that can wreak havoc seemingly anywhere at anytime of the day. But I would not hesitate to return to the country for a moment.

L. R. H. Harpe


To the Editor:

I have been to Costa Rica on several occasions. It is one of the most beautiful, diverse countries that I have been to. I have found a little known town called Sarchi, one hour away from San Jose. There you can buy beautiful, unique souvenirs and gorgeous wood furniture in cherry wood, laurel, and oak for less than half of what you would pay in the states. One of the must-go-to places to be in touch with nature is Monteverde, only a two and a half hour drive from San Jose. If you do not want to drive, there are many hotels that offer private bus transportation. In Monteverde there are so many bed and breakfast inns with such reasonable rates, some starting as low as $25 per person. If you go to Monteverde during the rainy season, buy a rain poncho because it is infamous for heavy down pours. Binoculars are a must to see the vast array of birds, sloths, monkeys, butterflies, and other wildlife.

Stuart Wollman



To the Editor:

I have been to Costa Rica several times. I fly into San Jose, rent a 4WD car (typically the low cost one is a Dihatsu Terios) and head out to wherever I want to go. First-time travelers should be advised that the main highways are generally good, but the back roads (like if you drive to Monteverde Cloud Forrest) are almost an off-road adventure. Unless they are experienced in 4WD driving on rocky rutted trails, they should start out early and not try it in the dark. Any rain (and there is plenty in the wet season and in the mountains) makes for a slippery, difficult ascent or descent, with the possibility of going off cliffs. Very serious stuff.

Obey the speed limits on the main roads! Both for your safety (there is some wild driving by tour busses and trucks, and be careful on the curves), and to avoid having to deal with the police. For the most part they are friendly, but only speak Spanish and can be a bit intimidating (they often carry automatic rifles). I have been stopped for “spot checks” and as long as you have your passport and rental car paperwork (and no alcohol or drugs! Seriously!!!) there is no big problem. They can spot the rental cars (they are all the same), and will give you “special attention” if you are doing anything out of the ordinary, like speeding.

The people are great, though few in the countryside speak much English, however in tourist areas (volcanoes, parks) and restaurants along major highways near San Jose, there are thieves. You will be told by the rental car companies, hotels, and police about theft from cars being frequent. Take them seriously. Don't leave anything in your car (even for a minute) that you would not be able to loose or replace. I never had a problem until my last visit. I parked in a lot at a nice restaurant on the highway that goes from San Jose to Manuel Antonio (which is a great place, especially for the less adventurous who still want to see wildlife, go for jungle walks, etc.) and my car was broken into even with people around (they never saw a thing). I didn't loose much since I keep important things with me all the time or in a room (which is usually very safe). But they got my tent (that I had since 1971 — that hurt) a small pack with day hike supplies (flashlight, bug spray, compass, etc), my “beer bag” (full! Ouch), pants, extra boots, even dirty clothes — in seconds.

But do not let this prevent you from enjoying the trip, just be careful with your valuables. As I said the people are wonderful. There are "bad apples" everywhere, but very few in Costa Rica.

Happy trails,We had wandered down the long stretch of beach to a gorgeous grotto and waterfall, and were enjoying ourselves immensely when huge waves started coming in. In a few minutes, the entire beach was just gone. We climbed up as high as we could along the rocky cliffs, trying to make our way back to the main beach.

— Cindy Hanna
Monterey, CA




Bob Wright

To the Editor:

I lived in Costa Rica while in college and I have a tip for anyone who travels there. If you plan to stay mainly around the capital, taking taxis will be much cheaper than renting a car usually. Driving in San Jose is like nothing you've ever seen unless you've traveled abroad before. If you want a stress-free trip, don't rent a car; taxis can be taken for a few dollars and save you the stress of driving. Also, taxis there don't charge more for additional people, so the more people you can squeeze in, the cheaper the fare when you split it up.

Also if you are planning a trip to either coast, sometimes the hotel will book a large taxi for you and anyone else in the hotel headed to the same area. You can then split the cost with other travelers and avoid driving yourself.

Robin Eber



To the Editor:

In the spring of 1996, I went to Costa Rica on vacation with a group of friends. Our idyllic holiday in paradise was almost a tragedy when we almost drowned in Manuel Antonio. We had wandered down the long stretch of beach to a gorgeous grotto and waterfall, and were enjoying ourselves immensely when huge waves started coming in.

In a few minutes, the entire beach was just gone. We climbed up as high as we could along the rocky cliffs, trying to make our way back to the main beach. Each wave slammed us into the rock, coming to about the tops of our backs, then pulled us out, clinging to the rock with our fingers, as it receded. Each of us lost our grips at least once, only to be pulled back onto the rock by a friend as the next wave came in. Some made it back to the main beach, others only found a spot to clamber up a little higher, grimly hanging onto the cliffs and waiting out the tide.

At one point we talked about swimming under the waves, hoping to get sucked out to an area where a group of surfers were. I almost tried it. Thankfully, sanity prevailed and I waited it out. Later, our friend's mom told us that Manuel Antonio is notorious for tides that come in high and fast, and many people drown there. Her own friends had lost a son to that beach; 24 years old, a strong swimmer in perfect shape, he was no match for those tides. His body was never recovered.

My legs were cut by the rock. Like coral cuts, some organism in the seawater caused an infection in my blood. After trudging along the rainforests happily for the rest of the week with some bandages on my legs, I returned home to the US and my legs swelled up. I went to the doctor thinking I might need a tetanus shot. I ended up with the threat of an overnight stay in our hospital and a course of IV antibiotics.

I loved Costa Rica's raw natural beauty, and I'd go again in a heartbeat. I'd encourage anyone to go. There's no place like it on Earth! That said, I'd share two bits of wisdom with those who are going:

Be aware of the tides along Manuel Antonio. There are (were) no posted warnings. Ask for the tide tables. Find out for certain when they'll come in, and don't be anywhere off the main beach when they are due in. You can't afford to be wrong on this one, folks. It could cost you everything.

Secondly, if you are cut somehow, don't scrub it out with seawater and “walk it off.” In the warm tropical climate of Costa Rica, life thrives. All kinds of life. Broken skin should be immediately treated with an antiseptic powder to dry it out and clean it up. Don't use a cream. Unlike here, you don't want to keep a wound moist in that climate. Seek medical attention as soon as possible if things don't seem right, and call up your family doctor when you get home, just to make a note in your files. If you get sick afterwards, knowing you were in a tropical environment with an open wound could make a huge difference in the course of treatment the doctor suggests.

With a few simple precautions, you're ready to enjoy paradise. Get out there and explore it!

Cindy Hanna
Monterey CA



To the Editor:

I went to Costa Rica last October and I couldn't think of a better time to go. It was not crowded nor was it raining (since it was the rainy season). We drove across the country, we

went to the Arenal Volcano by horseback, we visited the hot springs, Poas volcano, went white water rafting, did the jungle suspension tour, and a jungle cruise. The roads were horrible so I recommend renting a solid 4X4. On our way hiking near Arenal the road washed out numerous times so the truck was definitely necessary. Also, the highways tend to end in the We got to see the “Jesus Christ Lizard” (it walks on water), the three-toed sloth, howler monkeys, and so many beautiful flowers. The people in town were wonderful and they would all let us know if there was a great deal going on at a certain place. Right across the street from our hotel, we had a filet mignon dinner for $5!

Regina Barnhart
Budget traveler



To the Editor:

Though a truly beautiful country, unfortunately poverty abounds in Costa Rica. Many times, the children are the ones who have their hands out for spare change. It broke my heart to say no to so many sweet little faces on my first visit. So, on my second trip to Costa Rica I decided to take a set amount of money to change into Costa Rican coins just for the purpose of helping these wonderful poverty-stricken children. It made me happy and I didn't feel as though it was cutting into my vacation budget. Turned out to be a wonderful trip!

L. Cole



To the Editor:

I went to Costa Rica for New Years going into 2003. We stayed in a little town called La Fortuna, at the foot of Volcan Arenal, just up the road from the pricey resort Tabacon. We stayed in what are called “cabinas,” little side-of-the-road motels that offer clean sheets, clean towels daily, and air conditioning for $15 a night, regardless of how many people are in the room. The ones we stayed in were called “Cabinas Grijalba” and the staff there was so friendly! We asked about a horseback ride and they steered us away from a $35 ride to a waterfall to a $7 ride to the same waterfall, where admittance to the fall was 1000 colones (roughly $1 US). The waterfall was the same one in all the postcards. Just beware that the climb back up is NOT for the weak.

We found a jungle cruise for $35 a person, and it was worth it, with cute guides (who all spoke wonderful English) and fresh fruit. We got to see the “Jesus Christ Lizard” (it walks on water), the three-toed sloth, howler monkeys, and so many beautiful flowers. The people in town were wonderful and they would all let us know if there was a great deal going on at a certain place. Right across the street from our hotel, we had a filet mignon dinner for $5! I highly recommend getting the guanabana juice, blended with ice and water for a buck! Of course, the best bargain was that we had friends who worked for the airline, so we flew first class for $150 from Atlanta to Liberia (the airport is little more than a tiki hut with a runway, but it's so beautiful there!)

If you're not renting a car, I would recommend reserving a bus, rather than taking the taxi like we did (at $100), even though the taxi got us there in three hours and the bus would have been five hours, and it was nice getting to the hotel and being able to shower and change before dinner. Lastly, don't forget to stock up on duty free at the San Jose airport when you leave — a liter bottle of Absolut was $11.

Regina Barnhart



To the Editor:

I have just returned from Costa Rica. It was my forth trip to this wonderful country with its wonderful people. I was amazed at a new eco-tourist site, Waterfall Gardens (www.waterfallgardens.com). It had the most incredible walking trails that took you to a fern forest, rain forest, and cloud forest, and it was packed with large waterfalls including the famous La Paz waterfall. In addition, it also houses the world’s largest butterfly aviary and lab, as well as hummingbirds, and incredible plants and orchids. They also have villas and a restaurant. See Costa Rica’s beauty!

Michael Long



To the Editor:

I was fortunate to have traveled to Costa Rica in September of 2003 with friends. Our main 'base' was in a hotel in San Jose, but we booked another hotel at Jaco beach during one of our excursions. We learned a few things during our trip that may help others visiting there.

If going on one or more of the many excursions available, don't purchase your package from your hotel before comparing prices. We found a local agency within walking distance of the hotel that was less expensive.

Take the extra time to inquire about ‘unseen’ accommodations. While our hotel in San Jose was comfortable, the hotel we booked at Jaco Beach left a lot to be desired. The ocean view was awesome but the rooms were very low on amenities. We booked several rooms for our group. The shower stall in one of the rooms was infested with little black ants and some sort of heating element in the stall for hot water that looked kind of scary. For a bunch of rugged guys this wasn't a deterrence, but it could be for others. If you have time to do so, ask other Americans for their recommendations. We ran into them everywhere we went and they can be invaluable.

A surprising extra that I discovered was free internet service at our San Jose hotel. We found out about it accidentally. Two computers were set up in an alcove in the dining room for guests. I don't have to say how convenient and cost saving that was. Ask around — you never know.

One last thing: there are a lot of casinos around, especially in San Jose. If you like to partake in the games as I do, keep your attention on what you're doing. The personnel at certain places may not be exactly dishonest but when a mistake is made and a dispute arises it's amazing how many dealers suddenly don't speak English. Ask for the pit boss as you would in America and explain the discrepancy.

Having read this, don't think that it isn't a great place to visit. I'm planning a return trip as I write this. The country is beautiful, there's little crime and it's still affordable.

Perry Riley



To the Editor:

We spent a week in Costa Rica about three years ago. We did not travel into the towns very much. Most of our time was divided between the resort Blue Bay and excursions to the rain forest. The rain forest were unbelievable and seeing them by themselves would have made the trip worth doing. We did spend a day at one small town close to the resort. Everyone we met was very friendly. We come from a part of America that is known for its good food. We are somewhat amateur food critics. The food at the resort was good, which is unusual. At most resorts it is mediocre to poor. The little restaurant that we visited it town served the best Get to a town early, taking the local buses — another added cultural experience — and look around for rooms. Negotiate with the locals for a discounted rate for multiple nights. The truth is, they'll give you a room for almost any rate. Five dollars doesn't mean much to us, but it can mean a day's wages for many.

My biggest tip is this: get a guide. Namely, the Frommer's guide. It has a lot of good youth hostel information, as well as a map of San Jose when you first get in. Don't spend the big bucks for a fancy hotel if you are looking to go on the cheap. Get to a town early, taking the local buses — another added cultural experience — and look around for rooms. Negotiate with the locals for a discounted rate for multiple nights. The truth is, they'll give you a room for almost any rate. Five dollars doesn't mean much to us, but it can mean a day's wages for many. The local buses are great, they are cheap, they get into the heart of any town, and it gave me and my girlfriend a real sense of community with the people. We used the Frommers as a starting point in our research of a town, and then we just spoke to everybody we could. Go to Arenal to see the volcano. There is a room on the second floor that stares right at the Volcano. It is amazing. Biggest tips summary: negotiate with locals for rooms, do not plan in advance (if you are adventurous), take local buses to get around, save your money on hotels and food and spend it on activities (Don Lulo double waterfalls, Monteverde ziplines, Arenal volcanoes, and hot tubs at the base).

Wilson Mui



To the Editor:

My family and I just returned from seven days in Tambor, Costa Rica. My wife broke her ankle in Montezuma and couldn't get to an x-ray machine for four days. We couldn't get out of Tambor, except for a five hour ferry and then a two hour bus ride to get back to San Jose. The restaurant where she fell, in an unlit sidewalk culvert, has refused to help pay her medical expenses.

The middle son got stung on the face by a scorpion one morning in our villa, and the other two boys got severe ear infections, probably due to the salt and sand of the ocean. And we only caught three little fish on a half-day fishing trip.

Needless to say, we will not be going back to Costa Rica. While the scenery was beautiful and most of the people were friendly and helpful, when a crisis occurred, the responsible parties turned tail and ran. Not a good experience.

Michael Wheeler
Missoula, MT



To the Editor:

We just returned from Costa Rica, and traveled with Caravan Tours. Our package included airport transfers, all hotels, meals, entrance fees, bus tours with travel guide, etc. We had compared Caravan Tours with other tour companies and thought their package included more at a better price. While there, we traveled in five of the seven provinces and were on both the Atlantic and Pacific Coasts. Two of our hotels even included alcoholic beverages. I highly recommend Caravan!

Donna Watkins



To the Editor:

I just came back from what was planned to be a week long trip to San Jose and surroundings. A week turned into a quick two days. I was amazed with the crime and poverty level in the country. The restaurants were dirty and poorly maintained. Kids were begging for colones. Girls less than 17 were selling themselves everywhere. Also, I did not feel very safe at any time. My business partner and I are well over 6' 2" and 300 lbs. and he was robbed of $250 cash in the Del Mar Cafe in downtown San Jose. I am sorry, but I cannot take any positive values from my visit. Sorry to be so negative but I wanted to be honest.

Dr. Rocus A. Peters



To the Editor:

I own a business in Costa Rica. I have been traveling and doing business there for more than ten years. No visitor should stay in downtown San Jose! It does not represent Costa Rica at all and will give tourists the wrong impression of Costa Rica. The downtown area is dirty, congested, and filled with prostitutes and thieves. Stay in Escazu or Santa Ana. I suggest the Alta Hotel in Santa Ana, for example. It is small and charming. It has an excellent view and restaurant. Also, one can negotiate pricing. I have stayed there for as little as $79.

AW Hunt