Breakfast With Toucans
Shaney Hudson is surrounded by
jungle wildlife and unexpected
luxury in a Costa Rican lodge.
I've only ever seen a toucan on
a box of Froot Loops. But the
bird in front of me isn't
impressed when I present him
with his cartoon cousin,
pilfered from the breakfast
buffet that morning. He knocks
the cereal packet over with his
giant yellow beak and squawks
abusively. Tomorrow I'll bring
papaya instead.
I have more success hand feeding
wild hummingbirds. Like
miniature fireworks, hundreds
dart and hover around me,
occasionally pausing mid-air to
sip nectar from the fire-engine
red feeder in my hands. The buzz
and fluttering over my wrist
ceases momentarily and I realize
a tiny orange creature has
perched on my index finger, its
peach feathers shimmering as it
dips forward to drink.
Costa Rica is famed for its
exotic wildlife but my animal
encounters at Peace Lodge, one
of the country's best-kept
secrets, are getting
uncomfortably close when a
formidable blue macaw perches on
my shoulder and nibbles my
ponytail.
Peace Lodge is part of a larger
complex called La Paz Waterfall
gardens, located opposite an
active volcano on the outskirts
of the country's most visited
national park. The complex
includes hiking trails through
rainforest, a wildlife sanctuary
and five natural waterfalls that
cascade along the rim of the
gardens.
What makes the lodge different
is that it has the best of Costa
Rica's natural wonders -
smouldering volcanoes, pristine
rainforests and gorgeous
waterfalls - just minutes' walk
from the rooms, a perfect
scenario for honeymooning
couples, less mobile seniors and
those wanting to see it all but
travelling under time
constraints.
And if you want to get cozy with
wildlife, it's second to none.
As guests of the lodge, we're
given access to the grounds
outside normal opening hours
(when the animals are most
active), as well as private
tours of exhibits not yet open
to the public and a few other
special treats such as hand
feeding hummingbirds.
After our young guide, Luis,
introduces us to some newly
arrived jungle cats I ask if he
enjoys working at the gardens. "Pura
vida," he says with a genuine
smile. "In Costa Rica it means
'the good life'." Luis explains
that most of the animals at the
gardens were seized from
poachers or donated by their
owners, which explains why the
animals are so friendly.
The gardens are also home to the
world's largest butterfly
conservatory. They drift about
like bright leaves fluttering in
the breeze, or rest on the
ground like living confetti,
unfazed by the humans delicately
tiptoeing around them.
I watch, transfixed, as a giant,
cobalt-blue butterfly emerges
from its cocoon, slowly
untangles its delicate wings and
takes flight for the first time.
As I turn to go, I glance down
and realize a smaller tiger
butterfly is resting on my
shoulder.
We pass through the monkey
enclosure, a serpentarium, an
orchid display and a frog house
with equally close encounters,
before heading out to the cloud
forest and the booming sound of
falling water.
The waterfalls are spectacular
and a trail allows visitors to
walk downhill for a kilometre
alongside the falls. With all
the rain the euphemistically
named "green season" can muster,
the cascades are an impressive
avalanche of roiling water, each
waterfall larger and more
impressive than the next. At one
platform, just under the lip of
the falls, it is exhilarating to
stand inches from the torrent.
In addition to exclusive
encounters with Costa Rica's
wildlife, Peace Lodge has luxury
accommodation with a design
inspired by the lush natural
surroundings. Suites are
identified with a particular
species of butterfly, the room's
mascot, appearing in
stained-glass windows and framed
artwork.
In the oversized bathroom, a
stone spa bath sits under a
three-metre high waterfall,
framed by a tiered rockery of
jungle plants. Continuing with
the waterfall theme, a hidden
shower is moulded into the rocks
and, with the twist of a nozzle,
the flow diverts into a
waterfall-like cascade from the
rock shelf above.
In the main room, natural light
pours in from five-metre
ceilings. A fireplace,
handcrafted canopy bed and
rocking couch give the place a
homely feel and, outside, a
broad balcony overlooks the
rainforest, complete with a
second spa, hammock and coffee
table.
The next morning, wild parrots
and finches in every conceivable
combination of colours devour
fruit, just two metres from my
breakfast table. I wrap a piece
of papaya in a napkin,
discreetly tucking it in my
pocket. I'm off to feed a toucan
his breakfast.
Pura vida. |
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Sanctuary ... a stone spa bath at the Peace Lodge. [Foto:
Shane Hudson] |
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