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“What is ecotourism?”
The interesting thing about ecotourism is that very few people know how to
answer that question. The large part of the problem is that ecotourism means
different things to different people. To some, Pirates of the Caribbean
might suit well for an ecotourist adventure. To others, eating tree bark
while photographing squirrels is a much better alternative.
“People, the fickle creatures that we are, went to all the trouble to
build cities only later to find ourselves wanting to leave them.”
Our fundamental desire to enjoy nature has been the driving force behind the
development of ecotourism. Ironically this desire to “get back to nature”
began largely due to the development of nature’s antitheses...cities.
People, the fickle creatures that we are, went to all the trouble to build
cities only later to find ourselves wanting to leave them. Over time we
began to recognize that although cities insulate us from the natural
elements they also isolate us from its beauty and splendor. With every added
comfort that the urban lifestyle provides there is a greater gap between our
natural surroundings and us.
By the mid 60’s local governments realized that in order for a national park
to be successful it must benefit the local inhabitants financially. This was
the dawning of “ecotourism” which combined the notion of sustaining nature
and the local population simultaneously. Hiking, rock climbing, bird
watching and similar activities allow tourists to enjoy their natural
surroundings while sustaining the local economy through support services
such as hotel accommodations.
This redefined nature as a reusable commodity rather than a resource to
ravage. As a result, local inhabitants benefited from its preservation
rather than its destruction, or that’s the initial idea anyway. As the
industry of ecotourism grows there has become a greater need to define its
parameters. There have been many definitions asserted, however I found The
International Ecotourism Society (T.I.E.S.) to have as good a definition as
an: "Responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and
sustains the well-being of local people."
This would probably take Pirates of the Caribbean out of the running, but
eating tree bark and photographing squirrels might still make the grade. The
difficult part of this definition is to ascertain what is meant by
“responsible”. Rather than take any chances on acting “irresponsibly”, which
I seem to have a natural talent for, I decided to let T.I.E.S. guide me to
my first ecotourist destination.
The first leg of my journey brought me to the Arenal Observatory Lodge
located near La Fortuna which is listed by T.I.E.S. as an ecotourist
destination. The Observatory is fittingly located a lava spill away from the
active Arenal Volcano. If an aspiring ecotourist desires a close encounter
with nature this is probably one of the best locations for such an endeavor.
During my three day stay I was regularly reminded of Arenal’s presence with
the thundering burps of lava that were more often heard than seen due to the
consistent cloud cover overhead. Sadly this can often be one of the
difficulties with ecotourism; Mother Nature does not keep an itinerary. This
may sound obvious yet for some it is not all that clear.
During one of the guided tours a fellow ecotourist claimed he had felt
“cheated” given that the Observatory did not allow him to actually observe
an erupting volcano. He declared that the Observatory should not make such
assertions unless lava flow is included in the package. Fortunately Mother
Nature did offer a smattering of lava to appease his irritation. As a result
he decided to stay. Lucky for her.
My next leg of the trip brought me to a location that has tamed nature in
such a way that I was assured to experience it just they way I wanted. The
Tabacon Hot Springs. If there were such a thing as a water park for
ecotourism this would be it. Tabacon offers two natural springs of steaming,
hot mineral water meandering through the resort, spilling out into 17 wading
pools between lukewarm and scalding.
Numerous massage huts are spotted throughout the resort, which is embraced
by a garden that would bring Martha Stewart to envy; all of this in the
shadow of an active volcano. It is important to note that unlike the Arenal
Observatory Lodge, the Tabacon Hot Springs are not recognized by T.I.E.S.
Regardless, I was assured of experiencing natural wonders, cloudy day or
not. Still, I felt like I was cheating. It was the coconut facial or perhaps
the fruity, dill weed Slurpy.
Ultimately, the entire experience seemed just a little too decadent for this
journey to be truly considered ecotourism. I had to ask myself, "Do I need
to be removed from my creature comforts to be an authentic ecotourist?" The
answer is, “Who knows, or for some...Who cares?” Regardless, the La Paloma
Lodge, located on the Osa Peninsula, begs such a question.
Although the La Paloma Lodge is not affiliated with T.I.E.S. it has many of
the traits that make for an idyllic ecotourist adventure. Recycling,
environmental conservation, and generating income for the local population
are just some of the principles within the La Paloma philosophy. In addition
to its environmental ethic, La Paloma is cradled in one of the most
biologically diverse regions of Central America, just off the southern tip
of the Osa Peninsula nestled in Drake Bay.
Not surprisingly, getting there is half the fun. After a 30-minute flight by
prop plane, 15 minutes by jeep and 5 minutes by boat I felt like Harrison
Ford in Raiders of the Lost Ark. But as my friends often remind me, I am no
Harrison Ford. Regardless, during the journey I was exposed to breathtaking,
tropical scenery that is somewhere between a National Geographic exploration
and a Gilligan's Island episode, minus the seven castaways.
“Stray oil barrels, polluted riversides and a sewage system that leaves
absolutely nothing to the imagination are just some of the drawbacks to
underdeveloped ecotourism industry.”
During my stay at La Paloma I spoke with the resort manager, Nicole, about
ecotourism and what it means to her. She professed that ecotourism is in
fact a "contradiction in terms". Ecotourism by definition requires people to
observe nature. However, the more people "observe" the more nature is
impacted. And there is no doubt she is right. In the two years I have lived
in Costa Rica I have discovered that humans have done quite a job on this
beautiful country. Stray oil barrels, polluted riversides and a sewage
system that leaves absolutely nothing to the imagination are just some of
the drawbacks to an underdeveloped ecotourism industry.
One reason Drake Bay has been able to maintain such a great reputation for
the purist ecotourist is because of its seclusion from modern innovation.
Unfortunately like all good vacation destinations that may change.
Infrastructure such as paved roads, electricity and water lines are looming
in Drake Bay's future. As a result the Drake Bay community may become more
accessible for all the things that we hate to love...blow dryers, cars,
hotels, resorts and my personal favorite, stray dogs. It is important to
note that many ecotourist locations are good eco-destinations because they
are distant from the innovations that make life comfortable. The question
then becomes, how far removed from civilization does someone have to be
before they are assured of a genuine ecotourist location?
Considering that remote environments are often considered an integral part
of an ecotourist experience it would be difficult to suggest a more fitting
ecotourist adventure than Outward Bound. However, it is important to
remember the more remote an environment, the less comfortable it tends to
be. Outward Bound has been described as the Boy Scouts on steroids. Hiking
between 10 to 85 days through the rainforest, experiencing activities such
as cultural home stays, white water rafting, surfing, climbing or just about
any other activity that enhances your exposure to nature. All your amenities
are found in your backpack and the day generally ends with sleeping under a
rain tarp (appropriately named) deep in the Costa Rican outback. This is a
challenging and adventurous experience but rarely comfortable. Showering
once a week becomes a luxury. Deodorant is about as frequent as a coconut
facial. Intimacy is more common with mosquitoes than people; and your best
friend is the bottle of Gold Bond in your back pocket. Understandably this
adventure and others like it often get placed in "maybe next year" file for
tourist get-a-ways.
So after all is said and done what is ecotourism and which one of these is
the true ecotourist adventure? The answer is, it depends on whom you ask.
Ultimately the level in which you impact the environment is the barometer of
how "ecofriendly" you are. Leaving your living room will impact the
environment; the question is how do you become an ecotourist without
impacting the environment? That said I would like to leave you with this
thought…
If a tree grows in a forest and no one is there to see it, is it still
ecotourism?
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