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SPECIAL REPORTS
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Friday 11
February 2005
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CHILE:
Andean Indigenous Carnival Comes
to the City
Daniela
Estrada
SANTIAGO, (IPS) - For the
second year in a row, the
Chilean capital is hosting an
Andean Carnival held to pay
tribute to Mother Earth and
celebrate the ancestral
traditions of the indigenous
peoples of Peru, Bolivia,
Ecuador and northern Argentina
and Chile.
”We're holding the Andean
Carnival in Santiago as a way of
reviving the traditional
festivities of the indigenous
peoples in northern Chile, which
are gradually disappearing,”
Paulina Arce, the director of
the Identidad Indígena
(Indigenous Identity) magazine,
told IPS.
Arce is also one of the people
responsible for bringing these
traditionally rural celebrations
to the capital city.
The Carnival will take place
Feb. 12 and 13 on a hill known
as Cerro Blanco, in the district
of Recoleta on the northside of
Santiago. The area is home to a
large number of Peruvian and
Bolivian immigrants, who will be
active participants in the
activities scheduled.
The Carnival is traditionally
held to give thanks to Pachamama
-- the name for Mother Earth in
the Quechua language -- for
everything that she has provided
during the previous year. To
show their gratitude, those who
honour Pachamama must respect
nature and live in harmony with
those around them.
”Hills are places of power in
the Andean culture,” said Arce,
explaining the selection of
Cerro Blanco as the venue for
the festivities.
A total of 300 participants are
expected, of all ages and from
all social sectors, including
Andean indigenous peoples and
their descendants and other
members of the general public.
The Andean culture has no
precise geographical limits, but
it developed primarily in the
altiplano (high plateau) and
Andean foothill regions of
present-day Peru, Ecuador,
Bolivia (where the famous Ororu
Carnival is held), and northern
Argentina and Chile.
Descendants of the Atacameño,
Quechua, Kolla and Aymará
indigenous peoples still live in
Chile, and some continue to
practice traditional farming
methods that are closely linked
to the cycles of nature and the
movements of the stars.
According to the Chilean census,
however, the majority of the
Aymará who remain in far
northern Chile, their original
home, are now urban dwellers. Of
a total of 48,000 people,
two-thirds have emigrated to the
cities, while only one-third
remain in rural areas, where
they work the land on communal
or small private farms.
Dating back to pre-colonial
times, the Andean Carnival is
known in the Aymará language as
”Anata”, a word that means
”play” or ”fun”, and was
traditionally held to mark the
end of the rainy season and the
beginning of the harvest.
The Andean calendar is divided
into two main periods. One is ”Jallupacha”,
or the rainy season, which
begins in November with the
Festival of the Dead and ends
with the ”thanksgiving”
Carnival; the other is ”Awtipacha”,
which extends through the rest
of the year.
But today, the starting date of
the Carnival, and thus the shift
from one season to the other, is
determined through the same
method used for the Carnival
celebrations of the Western
world: by counting back 40 days
from Good Friday, which falls on
Mar. 25 this year.
”This celebration is not a
challenge to the Catholic faith.
On the contrary, most of the
Andean cultures underwent a
process of religious syncretism
after the Spanish arrived in
Latin America in the 16th
century, which is why it is
common to see a mixing of both
indigenous and Christian
religious elements,” said Arce.
Although the Andean Carnival in
Santiago is not an exact replica
of the ones held in the places
it originated, where it lasts an
entire week, the organisers have
tried to incorporate the most
symbolic rituals.
One of these involves bidding
farewell to ”Grandfather José
Domingo Carnavalón”, a
life-sized rag doll symbolising
fertility and happiness, who
presides over the festivities on
the back of a burro.
The ”grandfather” is festooned
with different offerings, in the
hopes that these will be
multiplied throughout the
following year.
In order to attend the Santiago
Carnival, participants are
expected to pay 1000 pesos (just
under two dollars) to cover the
costs of the ceremonies, and to
bring streamers, confetti,
seeds, fruit and money to pin on
the ”grandfather”.
Music is an integral part of the
festivities, with musicians
playing guitars and other
traditional stringed
instruments, brass horns, and of
course the wooden flutes (quenas)
and panpipes typically
associated with the region.
The last day of the ”Anata” is
Temptation Sunday, when the
participants play games with
water and flour as a way of
bidding farewell to happiness,
”which won't come back until
next year.”
After dancing all day, the
participants gather for the
least awaited moment of the
celebrations: the burial of
Grandfather Carnavalón, which
marks the end of the Carnival
and the return to the daily
grind.
José Segovia, the president of
the Chilean indigenous network
Coordinadora Nacional Indianista
(CONACIN), another of the
event's organisers, told IPS
that the Carnival has been well
received by the public. In his
opinion, this is because people
are beginning to feel the need
to get back in contact with
nature.
”Like us, the people who have
been drawn to this revival of
Andean culture can see the
material and spiritual decay of
Western culture,” he said.
Several years ago, Segovia
added, an Andean cultural
movement was founded in
Santiago, with different events
held throughout the year. It
includes four traditional Andean
brass bands and a number of
dance groups.
The CONACIN leader believes that
initiatives like these should be
promoted by the Ministry of
Education, to help curb the
influence of such ”decadent”
Western cultural phenomena as
rock, punk and hip-hop music.
Segovia pointed to the example
of two young Chileans of
indigenous descent who are
currently being held in Cuzco
for defacing the walls of an
Incan heritage site with
graffiti.
”Indigenous cultures have a
great deal to offer the world
today, considering the
deplorable state the planet is
in. The only way to recover the
centuries-old wisdom of these
peoples is by continuing to
celebrate their festivities,”
said Arce.
Overpopulation, pollution,
global warming and an imminent
shortage of freshwater are
symptoms of the critical state
of relations between human
beings and their environment,
something that would be
inconceivable in traditional
indigenous life, she added.
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