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SPECIAL REPORTS
- Tuesday
07 December 2004
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ARTS
WEEKLY/ARCHITECTURE-CUBA:
Camagüey, the Undiscovered City
Dalia
Acosta
CAMAGÜEY, Cuba (IPS) - Narrow
alleyways, colonial houses with
tiled roofs and tree-filled
inner courtyards, along with
fascinating local legends make
Camagüey one of the most
attractive destinations in Cuba
- and one of the most sadly
overlooked by the mainstream
tourism industry.
The capital of the central Cuban
province of the same name, some
500 kilometres east of Havana,
is little more than a stopover
for groups of tourists headed to
the nearby beaches.
When it comes to choosing a
place to go or to recommend to
visitors, Cubans usually opt for
such major tourist destinations
as the picturesque colonial city
of Trinidad, the stunning
natural scenery of Pinar del Río,
or the world-class beach resort
of Varadero.
But almost no one thinks of the
historical and cultural wealth
of the city of Camagüey, founded
in 1514, one of the first seven
townships established by Spanish
colonists on this Caribbean
island.
"There are tourists who arrive
in town at 6:00 p.m. and leave
the next morning. When they get
here, they find a city that's
totally dead. The museums are
all closed, and they have no
idea where to go or what to do,
because there's so little done
to promote the city," said
Sandra Jiménez, a 37-year-old
engineer and native of Camagüey.
Few visitors discover the
five-cornered square, or lose
themselves in the old city's
labyrinth of streets and
alleyways. According to legend,
the streets were purposely laid
out in this seemingly haphazard
manner to confuse the pirates
who posed a constant threat to
the city more than four
centuries ago.
Travel agencies limit Camagüey
to the status of a stopover, as
opposed to a destination in its
own right. The tourism industry
has done little to take
advantage of the cultural wealth
of this city, whose historic
centre, which covers 300
hectares, is the largest in
Cuba.
This lack of promotion is
evident to the specialists at
the Camagüey Historian's Office,
which is responsible for the
preservation and promotion of
the province's historical and
cultural heritage.
Teresa Pascual, who works in the
Office's urban development
section, told IPS that far more
could be done to draw visitors
to the city by making better use
of its potential as a cultural
tourism destination.
One of the obstacles is the
Office's lack of financial
resources. By contrast, the City
Historian's Office of Havana has
access to part of the profits
brought in by the tourism
facilities and other businesses
in the capital's historic
centre, and these funds allow it
to carry out a wide range of
cultural preservation and
community projects.
"If tourism and cultural
heritage were linked together,
so much could be achieved," said
Pascual.
Cultural and historical tours of
the city could include
colonial-era plazas,
centuries-old mansions, and the
impressive religious
architecture in this city of 12
churches, seven of which have
significant heritage value.
To help promote such an
initiative, the Camagüey
Historian's Office is preparing
an architectural guide that will
include information on major
landmarks, as well as local
history, customs, traditions and
culture.
There are a total of 14,351
buildings in Camagüey's historic
city centre, of which 13,320 are
used as housing. According to
official records, 4,769 of these
buildings are considered to be
of high architectural value.
Around 58,200 people live in the
area, which has a population
density of just over 194 persons
per hectare. The population has
remained stable over the last 25
years, and according to local
specialists, the people who live
in this community feel a
particularly strong sense of
belonging.
Camagüey is one of the country's
most important cultural centres,
with large and active visual
arts and theatre communities. It
is also the only province in
Cuba with its own ballet
company.
The creation of the Camagüey
Historian's Office in 1997
provided a boost to the
restoration work already
underway in such landmarks as
the Plaza del Carmen, a public
square dating back to the 19th
century, and the Plaza de San
Juan de Dios, from the 18th
century.
"It gave us the opportunity to
extend our efforts to the
interiors of houses, instead of
limiting our work to the
facades," explained Maiveris
Varona, from the conservation
and restoration department of
the City Historian's Office.
In addition to construction
projects involving public
squares and buildings that house
businesses and services, the
Office was able to undertake
"more ambitious efforts to
improve the living conditions of
the people who live in the
historic city centre," she told
IPS.
But finding the way to the Plaza
del Carmen is still difficult
for non-locals, while the Plaza
de Juan de Dios, more centrally
located, has yet to recover its
status as a bustling hub of
activity, as it was before the
economic crisis that hit the
country in the early 1990s.
"In the tavern they served
chorizos (spicy sausages) with
Tínima beer, brewed right here
in Camagüey. Next door there was
a herbalist who prepared every
kind of infusion imaginable.
People would go back and forth
between the two, and spend the
whole night in the square,"
recalled Jiménez.
Where these two establishments
used to be, there are now fast
food restaurants that simply
offer the same sandwiches and
beer served in similar places
throughout Cuba.
This is why Jiménez believes
there should also be an effort
to revive the traditional venues
"that still inspire nostalgia in
the people who live here, and
helped make our city unique.”
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