ENVIRONMENT-VENEZUELA:
Ecotourism in the
Tropical Andes
Humberto Márquez
MERIDA, Venezuela, (IPS) - Irene Sánchez's smile is as warm as the
hot chocolate she serves her guests at her El Trigal guest house,
located 3,380 metres above sea level in Venezuela's tropical Andes
mountains.
”I always wanted to have a small business, which is why I accepted as
soon as they invited me to get involved in the programme,” she comments
to this visiting journalist.
The Venezuelan non-governmental environmental Tropical Andes Programme,
founded in 1997, runs 11 ”mucuposadas” or guest houses in the chilly,
wind-swept highlands of the state of Mérida in northwestern Venezuela.
The simple inns are mountain huts belonging to ”campesinos” (peasant
farmers) ”who are poor in material terms but who live in a paradise
landscape,” says the Belgian biologist who heads the programme, Yves
Lesenfants.
”Mucu” means ”place” in the tongue of the now extinct Timotocuica
indigenous group that used to live in these bleak but magnificent
highlands. ”Posada” means inn or guest house in Spanish.
Villages and towns in the area carry names
like Mucuchíes, Mucubají or Mucurubá, and as a trademark, the future
guest houses to be opened in pilot projects in southeastern
Venezuela and on the border between Argentina and Bolivia will also
be called ”mucuposadas”.
”We have had tourists staying with us for 22 days straight. It's a
major boost to our income,” says Iris Rondón as she kneads the dough
to make ”arepa”, Venezuela's typical flat, round bread which is
usually made with corn flour, but at these altitudes is made with
wheat flour.
”The garlic harvest wasn't good this year, but we can get back on
our feet with the visitors,” she adds, in the mucuposada Agüita Azul.
Juan Carlos Quintero, who grows crops on three of his 10 hectares --
the rest is wild moor landscape covered by native species of flora
-- opened, with his mother Rosa, the mucuposada Nido del Gavilán,
3,358 metres above sea level.
”Our income is more or less 50 percent from the inn and 50 percent
from farming,” he tells IPS.
The tropical Andes mountains are among the most biologically rich
areas on the planet, home to 45,000 species of plants, 44 percent of
which are endemic, and 3,389 species of vertebrates (not counting
fish), 46 percent of which are endemic.
Various wild species of vegetables, like potatoes and maize, as well
as several kinds of fruit also grow in the tropical highlands.
But the area is facing the environmental depredation that tends to
accompany the expansion of the agricultural frontier. The summits of
Mérida, where the country's highest mountain, Pico Bolívar (4,987
metres), is located, show signs of that phenomenon.
In Venezuela's Andean highlands, for example, the introduction of
varieties of sun-grown coffee is destroying the mountainside forests
that protected Arabica coffee plants, which are traditionally grown
in the shade.
”We decided to work with the communities that have the greatest
impact on the forests and stands of trees in the highlands, which
were once the site of glaciers that have now shrunk to a few lakes
and wetland areas that are the source of springs and rivers that
flow into the (giant) Orinoco River and Lake Maracaibo,” Lesenfants
explains in an interview.
This country of 25 million is one of the Latin American nations with
the broadest formal protection of its jungles, lowland plains and
mountains.
A total of 40 national parks cover 16 percent of the 916,445-sq-km
territory, including the 2,000-sq-km La Culata Park in the highlands
and the 2,700-sq-km Sierra Nevada Park, which are mainly located in
the state of Mérida.
”However, we didn't want to come to the local campesinos with barbed
wire, but with a project to transform the view of the stunning
scenery of the parks into working capital,” says William Aular,
another environmentalist with the Tropical Andes Programme.
”If there are no jobs or opportunities, the young campesinos migrate
to the cities or occupy the national parks and create pastureland
for their sheep and cattle to graze,” he adds.
Irene Sánchez is a true believer in the cause: ”If we occupy or
destroy the park, rivers and groves, then we won't have anything to
show the tourists and we won't have any income,” she says. ”Besides,
we women now have a company in our hands, we don't only work in
agriculture anymore, and if we work together we can do okay.”
A total of 140 innkeepers and local guides offer their services in
the network of 11 ”mucuposadas” to ensure guests a comfortable,
hospitable stay and to provide guided tours and hikes along 22
different trails in the mountains to enjoy the varied ecosystems,
which include wild-flower covered hills.
The Association of Guides and Innkeepers -- some of whom own a guest
house, while others just have a couple of mules and endless stories
to tell -- is connected through a radio network, and has
standardised a list of specific services, like hot water and typical
dishes, as well as fees: an overnight stay including three meals
costs 15 dollars per person.
”Now we love our highlands even more. They're really pretty,” says
another local campesino, Rómulo Rangel, in the main room of his
Michicabá guest house in Gavidia, a 300-year-old village that half a
century ago ended up within the bounds of the Sierra Nevada Park.
A road finally reached the village 17 years ago, and the residents
have had electricity for just 13 years.
Rangel and his wife Rosalía sit and chat in the evening with their
guests, serving grilled trout from the Gavidia cooperative that
farms the fish.
”Our income has improved, and we will now be able to send our
children to study in Mucuchíes,” the nearest town, he explains.
Six tourists staying overnight at the guest house, eating three
meals a day and taking a horseback ride, generate the same income
brought in by 14 50-kg sacks of potatoes, or the yield of one-tenth
of a hectare farmed for six months.
”Our work with the communities is not carried out at random,” says
Lesenfants. ”We have worked in critical areas, where the forests and
moors are facing the greatest threats, and we select the campesinos
to be involved in the programme based on their location, their
management abilities, and the convenience of reassessing the value
of the park as working capital,” he adds.
The Tropical Andes Programme has received 1.1 million dollars in
financing from the European Union, and another 300,000 dollars from
the Spanish non-governmental organisation CODESPA and the Andean
Development Corporation, along with self-generated income from the
programme's Andean mapping services based on satellite images.
A large part of the funds have gone towards financing the
remodelling of campesino homes, to fit them out as guest houses, and
to loans for purchasing horses and work materials, which are paid
back into a rotating fund.
The project's success has encouraged the state-run company Edelca,
which administers the Guri hydropower dam in southeastern Venezuela
along the border with Brazil, to promote the creation of mucuposadas
among Pemón indigenous communities, as part of eco-tourism projects
that capitalise on the natural beauty of the Guayana region.
The Guayana region is home to the Gran Sabana (Great Savannah),
where more than 100 tepuis (Pemón for ”mountain”) are located. The
tepuis are flat-topped mountains that are among the most unique
habitats on earth, because the plant species have evolved in total
isolation.
The programme has also awakened the interest of the company
operating another dam, in Yacambú, in central-western Venezuela.
To share their experiences, Edelca and the Tropical Andes Programme
took campesinos from the Andean highlands to the Guayana savannah to
meet people from the Pemón indigenous community.
It was the first time Sánchez had left her remote highland region --
not to mention her first time on an airplane. ”The Pemón are simple
people like us. We understood each other easily,” she recalls.
In the northwestern Argentine province of Salta and in Tarija in
southern Bolivia there are plans to reproduce the experience of the
mucuposadas to take advantage of the wetlands that serve as refuge
to flamingos and other species, and the Yungas, the southernmost
forests of the tropical Andes, in community-based eco-tourism
ventures along the Bermejo River.
If the pilot rural tourism projects prosper in the cloud forests of
that highlands region, the ”mucu” root of the language of the
extinct Timotocuicas will have been exported from Venezuela, along
with the motto of the programme's enterprising organisers: ”preserve
by improving people's lives.”
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