In Nicaragua, a community that fled Sandinistas
makes a return
By Brian Harris
MANAGUA, Nicaragua, (JTA) — About two dozen people have gathered at the
home of plastics maker Max Najman for Sabbath dinner, a rather mundane
occurrence in most places but a remarkable breakthrough here.
After Nicaragua’s entire Jewish population fled the country in the early
1980s, the friendly and casual meetings that take place at the Najman
house every Friday night represent a renaissance of Judaism.
Following years of revolution and civil war, the return of some Jewish
practices to Nicaragua is yet another sign of the country’s emergence
from the shadow of the 1979 Sandinista revolution, the only successful
guerrilla triumph in the Americas aside from Fidel Castro’s in Cuba.
But Nicaraguan Judaism still has a long way to go before it can
approximate even its modest, pre-revolution heyday.
“On a scale of one to 10, I’d say we are at number two” on the
comeback scale, said Kurt Preiss, president of the Nicaraguan Jewish
Association. “There is a long way to go.”
Arturo Vaughan, a local Jewish leader who serves as Israel’s
honorary consul here, says there are about 15 Jewish families —
totaling perhaps 60 people — in Nicaragua today. In the late 1970´s,
before the revolution, 32 families lived here.
However, the current numbers are enough of a blip to have drawn two
students from a Chabad-Lubavitch yeshiva in New York for a Sabbath
dinner in mid-July.
Perhaps the best inspiration the community has is the Najman family,
which manages to live a kosher and Sabbath-observant lifestyle in a
country whose only certified kosher product is its world-renowned
Flor de Cana aged rum.
With encouragement from the Chabad Lubavitch shul established a
dozen years ago in neighboring Costa Rica — which the Najmans belong
to — the family says it’s not too hard to be observant.
But Managua isn’t built for keeping the Sabbath: With its
unrelenting heat and spread-out urban design — it covers almost 120
square miles — the city is inhospitable for pedestrians.
Every other month, Jimmi Najman takes a delivery truck from the
family factory to Costa Rica and loads it with kosher beef and
poultry, products that Costa Rica exports to the United States and
Israel.
“It’s not so tough keeping kosher,” Max Najman laughs. “We have a
big freezer.”
The challenges facing the community are immense. It no longer has a
synagogue: The pre-revolution one burned in 1978, later was seized
by the Sandinista regime and converted into a school, and now is a
funeral home.
While the families that make up the community today agree that a
synagogue would be a welcome addition — they reportedly have
received pledges for donations to build one — there’s no consensus
on where to build it.
The nearest Jewish family to the Najmans, for example, lives a
half-hour drive away. Preiss, the president of the Jewish
Association, lives in the colonial city of Granada, 90 minutes away
and home to a small Jewish cemetery. Other families live in Esteli,
a town in the north a short hop from the Honduran border.
The Sandinista era took more than the community’s synagogue; it also
stole the community’s identity. Since most of the community was
linked, either politically or through business ties, to the Somoza
dictatorship that ran the country like a family farm for some 50
years, Jews were among the first targets of property confiscation
under the Sandinistas.
That practice sent many Nicaraguan Jews into exile. Most went to
Miami, though some wound up in Honduras and Costa Rica. Only when
the Sandinistas were ousted in 1990 elections did Nicaraguan Jews
began to return, but the community’s Torah remains in Costa Rica.
Israel had supported and armed the Somoza dictatorship until its
final days, so one of the Sandinistas’ first diplomatic moves was to
sever ties with Israel and recognize the Palestine Liberation
Organization.
Today, Managua still hosts Libyan and Palestinian embassies, though
Israel and Nicaragua have resumed diplomatic relations.
Former Interior Minister Tomas Borge, the lone surviving founder of
the Sandinistas and still one of the opposition party’s most
influential leaders, keeps a snapshot on his office wall of himself
with Palestinian Authority President Yasser Arafat.
But he says the Sandinistas now “recognize the State of Israel’s
right to exist,” even if they “deplore” its policies toward the
Palestinians.
During his tenure, Borge’s ministry issued Nicaraguan passports to
an unknown number of PLO members.
Many families have not returned from exile, so the community relies
on foreigners who have taken up residence here to fill out its
ranks. Nicaraguans were a minority at one recent Shabbat dinner,
where guests also included several visiting Israeli agricultural
advisors, a Colombian family that recently had moved here and a
couple ending their tour of duty with the local United States
Embassy.
Those at the dinner displayed a range of Jewish knowledge: The
Najmans and several others were able to keep pace with the yeshiva
students, while others struggled with the phonetic spellings of the
prayers.
But what they lacked in knowledge they made up for in enthusiasm,
and many scoured the books on Judaism and Jewish practices that the
yeshiva students brought.
That enthusiasm extends to their pocketbooks, as well: For important
holidays, many Nicaraguan Jews travel as far as Miami or Costa Rica
for services.
Because of the community members’ history and geographic range,
there are a variety of theological currents.
Before the revolution, services and prayers were conducted in what
best could be described as Orthodox style. But now, Nicaraguan Jews
run the gamut from the Najman’s affiliation with Chabad-Lubavitch to
others who are relatively non-practicing.
Preiss calls the group a theological “fruit salad.”
Elena Pataky, who spent a period of exile in Miami and maintains
close contact with her rabbi there, welcomes any attempt to return
tradition and teaching to the country. But her 20-year-old daughter
— used to the Nicaraguan practice of greeting each other with hearty
handshakes, bear hugs or kisses on the cheeks — was annoyed that the
yeshiva students avoided physical contact with her.
There also are several families — including that of Managua’s
Sandinista mayor, Herty Lewites — who have Jewish ancestry but
identify as Christians and never have sought ties with local Jews.
While the presence of future rabbis was a novelty for the Nicaraguan
Jews, members of the community are finding that they themselves are
a mild novelty for Nicaraguans.
Najman jokes that when people see his yarmulke they sometimes
mistake him for a priest and ask for blessings.
But a bit of humorous confusion is a much smaller price for
Nicaraguan Jews compared to exile.
|